Two from Chateau d'Esclans

November 2009

The Côtes de Provence is an easy appellation to understand; light pink and simple wines made principally from typical southern varieties such as Grenache, Cinsaut, Syrah and even Mourvèdre, perhaps with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan or other less well known varieties blended in. They are undistinguished wines, made for chilling hard and drinking young, by the bucket-load, preferably on the beach. No other setting will really do.

That might be less an understanding, and perhaps more a misconceived caricature, if these two wines from Chateau d'Esclans are anything to judge by. A recently revitalised estate, the wines first came to the attention of many last year when they arrived on the UK market wearing some impressive price tags. For what is usually a cheap-and-cheerful appellation these are expensive wines which, at the top end, cost more than ten times what we would probably expect to pay. This is an estate with ambition, and no doubt that reflects the character of the men behind the wine. First up is Sacha Lichine, a family name well known to any Bordeaux acolyte; this is the son of Alexis Lichine, one-time proprietor of Prieuré-Lichine and Lascombes. Chateau d'Esclans, acquired in 2006, is his personal project, with the support, advice and backing of renowned oenologists Patrick Léon and Michel Rolland. The former once headed up the technical team at Mouton-Rothschild until his retirement, whilst the latter's fame is such that he requires no introduction I think.

The estate now turns out a range of rosé wines as well as a more recently introduced red cuvée. The former begins with the entry level Whispering Angel, moving through the estate wine to the Esclans and Les Clans cuvées before we reach the flagship wine, Garrus. The Whispering Angel is fermented in steel with temperature control and then matured on the lees with bâtonnage. What distinguishes the grander cuvées is typically location and age of the vines, together with the use of demi-muids over steel for fermentation, with the Garrus coming from old vines (many up to 80 years-old) on selected plots around the chateau, with a double sorting, full destemming, exclusion of press wine and fermentation in 500-litre demi-muids with bâtonnage. It all sounds very high quality, very Burgundian in style.

The two wines described below were provided for me to taste by by Goedhuis & Co (Tel: +44 20 7793 7900); the provision of such samples has no bearing on the independent opinions that follow, but if you feel my opinions may be subconsciously swayed please bear this in mind when reading. The usual disclaimer; I make no commission on sales and I do not sell wine. I have included Goedhuis prices in brackets, but also links through to wine-searcher in order to provide details on all stockists. (12/11/09)

Two from Chateau d'Esclans - Tasting Notes

Tasted in November 2009

Chateau d'Esclans Whispering Angel 2008: The most 'generic' wine, a blend of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Mourvèdre, fermented cool (10-12ºC) in steel with subsequent bâtonnage. A slightly richer hue than the domaine wine, still elegantly restrained though. The nose has some nettly strawberry and peach fruit, and is overall very clean with just a hint of supple cream to soften the impact. The palate is similarly fresh, with a slightly softer, rounded character than the next wine. This makes it a touch more accessible, a touch easier to drink, but it still has plenty of style, and a nice grip right at the middle. Nice punchy finish too, and a little length. Nicely structured, and just a little touch of liquorice in the finish. Overall very good. 16.5/20 (£61+VAT per 6)

Chateau d'Esclans Rosé 2008: One step up from Whispering Angel; includes some Grenache from 80-year-old vines, with Cinsault, Rolle and Syrah. Destemmed, fermented cool, with a proportion managed in demi-muids as well as steel. Not quite a vin gris, but certainly a very pale, pink-peach hue. Freshness in abundance on the nose, a little creaminess to the fruit aromas, although there are more complex notes of angelica and liquorice too. Very nicely composed on the palate, harmonious but with some grip and certainly some spicy punch at the end of the midpalate and in the finish. Salty liquorice again, peach skin and stone with notes of white pepper dominating here, not a raspberry or strawberry in sight. Texturally this is very appealing, it is substantial but not forced, with a touch of cream but in no way soft or simple, this is a pleasing, savoury mouthful. A good finish with just a little length. Very nice. 17/20 (£99+VAT per 6).